BMW 3 Series E46 DIY Guides BMW 3 Series E36 DIY GuidesThanks for the replies guys- yup it's a 3 button OEM homelink/autodimming mirror, with working clown nose and it is trapezoidal in shape.now I can see even more of the mailbox slot out the rear window! LOL anyways, the range on this mirror is at least 4 times the distance of my '09 M3's mirror.I'm very impressed.don't know why one would bother installing a homelink module in a coupe mirror or coupe headliner when this mirror is available.Getting back to the topic, This is my second E39 with the built-in garage opener unit and I've been disappointed with the range on both. We've lived in 3 different houses since my first E39 w/remote and in all cases, the garage door manufacturer's remote has a longer reach.More Transmission / Drive Shaft - BMW E46 DIY.
Bmw E46 Garage Door Programming Code Code HoppingLikely $600 for the BMW Homelink mirror) is to retain the OE oval shape of the mirror. The oval mirror says "M" to me, but my thoughts are shaped (pun intended) by the fact that my M5 and M coupe have oval mirrors. Garage Door Opener Remote: This is the original garage door opener remote. The garage door opener is made by Genie and this particular unit has the Intellicode code hopping security feature.The wires you see are what I soldered to the circuit board and will be discussed in more detail later.Garage Door Opener Remote Circuit Board (Bottom): This a bottom shot of the circuit board. The center blue button is the one I tapped for use in the car. Opening the remote was easy and involved removing a few screws on the back of the case.Garage Door Opener Remote Circuit Board (Top): This is a shot of the actual circuit board inside the case of the remote. The garage door opener is made by Genie and this particular unit has the Intellicode code hopping security feature.This particular remote was a 12 volt remote. This is not necessary, since a battery would still work, but I did not want to pull the dash apart every time I needed to change a battery. Be careful not to burn the circuit board when applying the solder.Soldered Power Leads to Circuit Board: This is a close up of where I soldered the leads that would power the remote from the car. The push button I used simply shorts the same contacts as the button on the remote. Not the prettiest soldering job, but it works. Removal of the headlight switch/vent assembly is discussed a little later.Fog Light Switch Assembly Taken Apart: This is a shot of the switch assembly taken apart prior to drilling. The lower portion of the switch assembly is actually hollow and will be drilled to mount the new switch. This is a shot of the fog light switch assembly removed from the headlight switch/vent assembly (prior to the installation of the new garage door opener switch), it will pop out. I also ended up using the battery terminals as wire guides for added support to the soldered power leads, an unexpected bonus!Fog Light Switch Assembly: The location I mounted my new switch was just below the fog light button. Be sure to pay attention to the polarity of the leads. Don’t lose these springs since they are required for the fog light switch to function properly. When it comes apart, there will be two tiny springs that will come out. Use a small, pointy object to slowly and carefully pry the switch apart. Taylor swift discography wikiThis is where they need to be prior to fog light switch re-assembly.Switch Used for This Install: This is the switch I used for the install. Notice the location of the two springs mentioned earlier. The bottom is where I will be drilling the new hole. The top part is the existing fog light switch. I used some velcro to keep it in place in there. You don’t want to make the hole too big for the new switch.Circuit Board Inside the Dash: This is the circuit board installed inside the car (the area behind the headlight switch/vent). Be sure to take it slow and check for proper fit of the switch as you go along. I used a Dremel Tool for this, slowly widening the hole. The cost was less than $2 from Radio Shack.Fog Light Switch Assembly After Hole Was Drilled: This is a frontal view of the switch assembly after it was drilled. Reconnect the harness and re-install the headlight switch (of course, don’t forget to reconnect the fog light switch harness!).The Finished Product: Here is the finished product. Unscrew the nut and remove the headlight switch. Once the cap is off, you will notice a nut. To do this, remove the outer switch cap by pulling towards you. To reconnect the headlight switch harness, I found it easier to remove the headlight switch form the assembly. I decided to keep the excess slack to make future removal of the headlight/vent assembly easier. I then pushed back the excess wire into the dash and snapped the switch into the fog light switch assembly.
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